The Bartlett brothers’ run their own sheep farm at North Wootton near Shepton Mallet in Somerset. Their young cheese, Little Ryding, is made with their own organic milk.

But ewes’ milk isn’t available all year. so they also make this 250g mould-ripened cheese with organic Jersey cows’ milk. Firmer when young, it develops a squishy (their word, not mine!) texture after about 3½ weeks.

A tangy, chalky centre, with a soft rim like melted butter, encased in a delicate rind with a smidgeon of bite – this is a king among cheeses, an emperor to a camembert citizenry.